Agadir, Morocco

Apr. 4, 2023

Morocco is a mountainous country in western North Africa that lies directly across the Strait of Gibraltar from Spain.

Morocco borders Algeria to the east and southeast, Western Sahara to the south, the Atlantic Ocean to the west, and the Mediterranean Sea to the north. It is the only African country with coastal exposure to both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Its area—excluding the territory of Western Sahara, which Morocco controls—is slightly larger than the U.S. state of California. Two small Spanish enclaves, Ceuta and Melilla, are situated on the country’s northern coast.

Here is the flag of Morocco:

The traditional domain of indigenous peoples now collectively known as Berbers, Morocco has been subject to extensive migration and has long been the location of urban communities that were originally settled by peoples from outside the region. Controlled by Carthage from an early date, the region was later the westernmost province of the Roman Empire. Following the Arab conquest of the late 7th century CE, the broader area of North Africa came to be known as the Maghrib (Arabic: “the West”), and the majority of its people accepted Islam. Subsequent Moroccan kingdoms enjoyed political influence that extended beyond the coastal regions, and in the 11th century the first native Berber dynasty of North Africa, the Almoravids, gained control of an empire stretching from Andalusian (southern) Spain to parts of sub-Saharan Africa. Attempts by Europeans to establish permanent footholds in Morocco beginning in the late 15th century were largely repulsed, but the country later became the subject of Great Power politics in the 19th century. Morocco was made a French protectorate in 1912 but regained independence in 1956. Today it is the only monarchy in North Africa.

Although the country is rapidly modernizing and enjoys a rising standard of living, it retains much of its ancient architecture and even more of its traditional customs. Morocco’s largest city and major Atlantic Ocean port is Casablanca, an industrial and commercial center. The capital, Rabat, lies a short distance to the north on the Atlantic coast. Other port cities include Tangier, on the Strait of Gibraltar, Agadir, on the Atlantic, and Al-Hoceïma, on the Mediterranean Sea. The city of Fès is said to have some of the finest souks, or open-air markets, in all of North Africa. Scenic and fertile, Morocco well merits the praise of a native son, the medieval traveler Ibn Baṭṭūṭah, who wrote that “it is the best of countries, for in it fruits are plentiful, and running water and nourishing food are never exhausted.” After Agadir, I shall be blogging about Casablanca and Tangier.

Most of Morocco lies at high elevations, averaging about 2,600 feet above sea level. Two chains of mountains divide eastern from Atlantic Morocco: the Rif Mountains in the north form a buffer along the Mediterranean coastline, whereas the Atlas Mountains create a barrier across the center. The two parts of the country are connected by the narrow Taza Gap in the northeast as well as by roads that follow older traditional routes.

Much of Morocco north of Western Sahara, particularly along the coasts, experiences a typical Mediterranean climate, with mild wet winters and hot dry summers. The rainy season generally extends from October to April.

In the broad coastal lowlands, average annual precipitation diminishes progressively from about 32 inches on the northern Gharb plain to less than 8 inches in the Sous valley. Farther south, semiarid conditions quickly fade into desert.

In the lowlands near the coast, summer heat is reduced by cool onshore breezes. Average daily summer temperatures in the coastal cities range from 64 to 82 °F. In the interior, however, daily highs frequently exceed 95 °F. In late spring or summer, the sharqī—a hot, dusty wind from the Sahara—can sweep over the mountains into the lowlands, even penetrating the coastal cities. Temperatures rise dramatically, often reaching 105 °F. If crops have not been harvested, damage can be extensive from the desiccating effects of the sharqī. In winter the marine influence again moderates temperatures in the coastal regions. Average daily winter temperatures range from 46 to 63 °F. Away from the coast, temperatures drop significantly, occasionally dipping below the freezing point.

Morocco is composed mainly of Arabs and Berbers or a mixture of the two. Sizable numbers of Berbers live mainly in the country’s mountainous regions—long areas of refuge for them where they can preserve their language and culture. Some segments of the population are descendants of refugees from Spain who fled from the Reconquista, the Christian reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula in the 15th century. Trade and slavery brought a significant population of sub-Saharan Africans to Morocco, and their descendants now live chiefly in the southern oases and in the larger cities. Jews constituted a fairly large minority until the mid-20th century, when, in the aftermath of the foundation of Israel and the start of the Arab-Israeli conflict, many felt compelled to leave the country, most emigrated to Israel, Europe, and South and North America.

Arabic, one of the national and official languages of Morocco, is spoken by two-thirds of the population, and Modern Standard Arabic is taught in schools. The Berber language, known as Tamazight, became an official language in 2011. Having been preserved in Berber enclaves, it is spoken by roughly one-third of the people. Many Berbers also speak Arabic, and Tamazight is taught in schools. French is an important secondary language, and Spanish is widely spoken. English is increasingly used as well.

Islam is the official state religion, and the vast majority of Moroccans are Sunni Muslims. The royal house, the ʿAlawite dynasty, has ruled since the 17th century basing its claim to legitimacy on descent from the Prophet Muhammad. The royal family is revered by Moroccan Muslims because of its prophetic lineage. Moroccan law mandates freedom of religion, but few non-Muslims reside in the country. The country has no indigenous Christian population to speak of, and its Jewish community has dwindled to a few thousand.

Our first Moroccan port, Agadir, is a city and Atlantic port in southwestern Morocco. The city lies 6 miles north of the mouth of the Sous valley. Possibly the site of the ancient Roman Portus Risadir, the city was occupied by the Portuguese from 1505 to 1541, when it fell to the Saʿdī sultanate.

After the Moroccan Crisis of 1911, when the German gunboat Panther appeared offshore “to protect German interests,” the city was occupied by French troops (1913). Modern growth began with the construction of the port (1914), development of the Sous plain, exploitation of inland mineral resources, and the fishing and fish-canning industries. In 1960 the city was virtually destroyed by two earthquakes, a tidal wave, and fire, which killed about 12,000 people. A new central city was built to the south of the old town. The city is linked by road with Safi and Marrakech; it also has an international airport.

The region that surrounds Agadir is composed of the plain of the east-west–trending Sous valley, which itself is enclosed between the High Atlas (Haut Atlas) and Anti-Atlas mountains. Cereals (primarily barley), citrus fruits, olives, sheep, goats, and cattle are raised on the irrigated Sous plain, and sheep and goats are grazed in the mountains.

The population of Agadir is currently estimated to be 979,248.

We left the ship and set out by coach to the Kasbah Agadir Oufella fort and viewpoint, also home to the ancient kasbah, built in 1540.

View of Agadir from the kasbah:

From the kasbah it was only a short drive down the hill to the Berber market of Souk Al Had. Here among the maze of souks (markets), we could shop for everything from carpets to fine handicrafts. This is one of the entries to the souks.

Here are a few more shots of the souks. Do you like olives?

How about oranges?

Maybe you need sandals or shoes?

The souks just go on and on.

I’ll finish with a few photos of the city of Agadir.

So, we say goodbye to Agadir and set sail for Casablanca.