Durban, South Africa

Mar. 10, 2023

Upon our arrival in Durban, we set out for Valley of a Thousand Hills for a Zulu dance demonstration and a reptile park and rehabilitation center. Before I go into a description, I will share some facts about Durban.

Durban, formerly Port Natal, largest city of KwaZulu-Natal province and chief seaport of South Africa, is located on Natal Bay of the Indian Ocean. European settlement began with a band of Cape Colony traders led by Francis G. Farewell, who charted the port in 1824 and named the site Port Natal. Land was ceded to the group by Shaka, the Zulu king, and the Old Fort (now a museum) was built. Durban was founded in 1835 on the site of Port Natal and was named for Sir Benjamin D’Urban, the governor of the Cape Colony. In the late 1830s and early ’40s the Boers clashed with the British over control of Durban. It became a town in 1854 and was created a city in 1935.

Sprawling along the coast, Durban is overlooked to the south by the Bluff (hills separating the landlocked bay from the sea) and stretches across the Umgeni River to the heights of Durban North. Its civic and business center is on flat land, rising gently to the slopes of the white residential district of the Berea, a ridge of hills encircling the harbor and beach. Durban’s numerous parks include the Botanic Gardens with its orchid house, Jameson Park and its rose gardens, and Snake Park with its collection of poisonous reptiles. There are several museums and black and Indian markets. Cultural and sporting events are held in Moses Mabhida Stadium, part of the larger King’s Park Sporting Precinct, a commercial, retail, and leisure district.

Development of Durban’s harbor, one of the world’s major commercial ports, began in 1855. Serving the Witwatersrand industrial region, it is a major container port and point of entry for bulk raw materials, capital goods, and industrial equipment. Minerals, coal, sugar, and grain are exported, and oil is refined and piped to Johannesburg. After World War I Durban changed from a prim Victorian town to a modern metropolis with skyscrapers and multistoried buildings. It is the headquarters of South Africa’s sugar industry and a center of highly diversified manufacturing activity. Tourism is important and is based on the city’s proximity to KwaZulu-Natal’s game and nature reserves and on the beaches and their facilities, such as an esplanade and an oceanarium.

Durban has a larger Indian population than white; the area contains one of the largest concentrations of Indians in South Africa. Ntuzuma, Umlazi, and Embumbulu districts to the immediate west were developed as black (mostly Zulu) commuter suburbs. Many blacks were moved from Durban to these areas in the late 1970s under apartheid policies. Durban is administered by the Ethekwini municipality. Durban is South Africa’s third-largest city after Johannesburg and Capetown. The population of Durban in 2018 was 3.44 million.

Arriving at the Valley of a Thousand Hills, we experienced modern and ancient African tribal culture in the traditional and spectacular homeland of the Zulu people. This geographically astounding area was shaped first by the winding Mgeni River, then by the culture of the Zulu tribes, and finally by the arrival of Europeans.

As we journeyed into the valley, we learned how these tranquil rolling hills belie the blood-soaked drama that unfolded almost two centuries ago when the Zulu King, Shaka, known to historians as the Black Napoleon, subjugated the tribes that today make up the Kingdom of the Zulu. Our visit to Phezulu gave us the opportunity to discover firsthand the intricacies, ethnic customs and beliefs of the Zulu people.

We began with a tour of Phezulu’s impressive reptile park, learning about the crocodiles and taking home vivid images of some of Africa’s most deadly snakes.

First, we observed some crocodiles. The age of this fellow is about 100 years.

The oldest known croc attained an age of 119 years.

On our way to view the snakes we encountered this terrapin.

Think of Africa, and snakes perhaps aren’t the first wildlife that springs to mind. Not with lions, leopards, rhinos, etc. I still think they are a beautiful and under-appreciated piece of the wild. Before discussing individual snake species, it is worthwhile discussing venom types.

Snake venom is made up almost entirely (90-95%) of proteins. However, the remaining portions of snake venom is made up of enzymes and toxins, which are the dangerous or the “business” parts of snake venom.

Enzymes help to break down and degrade tissues of their prey or an unlucky victim. For example, certain enzymes (collagenase) directly affect collagen which is found in our skin as well as connective tissues in our body.

Toxins are essentially poison to the systems that they target (blood system, nervous system, tissues). When paired with enzymes that work to break down tissue, it can be a deadly combo.

There are three main types of snake venom. Each affects the body differently: neurotoxic, hemotoxic, and cytotoxic venom. Each venom type targets a specific part or system of the body. All types have the potential to be deadly and/or cause severe damage.

NEUROTOXIC VENOM
Effects: Paralysis, convulsions or rapid muscle twitching, difficulty breathing and other respiratory issues
Deadly? In many cases, yes.

The word neurotoxic comes from its effects on the nervous system. Neurotoxic venom essentially acts as a poison to the nervous system. The nervous system depends on neurotransmitters (chemical signals) and neurotransmitter receptors (points where neurotransmitters bind to) to send signals between the brain and our bodies. When neurotoxic venom is introduced into the body, it quickly causes problems.

Neurotoxic venom can reduce the production of neurotransmitters or block neurotransmitters all together, severely disrupting processes in the nervous system. These disruptions can essentially paralyze the muscles that we use to breathe, which in turn can cause respiratory failure and prevent bite victims from breathing.

CYTOTOXIC VENOM
Effects: Severe pain, swelling of area surrounding bite, necrosis (death of tissue)
Deadly? Yes, but less-so than the other types of venom.

Cytotoxic venom affects the cells that make up tissues, organs and muscles in our body. Cytotoxic venom works quickly to kill and damage the body cells. Victims that are bitten by snakes with cytotoxic venom begin to experience the effects almost immediately.

With time, necrosis can spread from the bite site to other parts of the body. Those that are not treated right away may need to have the affected part of the body amputated to stop the spread of necrosis. Lasting effects of a bite from a cytotoxic venom often include permanent tissue damage.

HEMOTOXIC VENOM
Effects: Swelling, internal bleeding, hemorrhaging, necrosis
Deadly? Yes

Hemotoxic venom poisons the circulatory system or bloodstream. Once hemotoxic venom enters the blood stream, it begins to attack and kill red blood cells. The red blood cells burst open and essentially prevent the blood clotting (coagulation) that naturally occurs in the body. Severe internal bleeding occurs as a result of blood cells rupturing and then the inability for the blood to clot.

When the damaged red blood cells begin to accumulate or build up, it can prevent the kidneys from functioning properly. Additionally, hemotoxic venom can also cause blockages in blood vessels which can lead to heart failure.

Effects of hemotoxic venom typically take longer to affect the victim than neurotoxic or cytotoxic venom. Like all venomous snake bites, getting to treatment as quick is possible gives the victim the best chance of survival.

Here are some of the snakes we saw.

The black mamba:
The black mamba is Africa’s largest venomous snake, reaching an average of 8 feet in length. The biggest ones, however, can get as long as 14 feet. It is also the continent’s most feared snake. The black mamba is extremely aggressive and will not hesitate to strike. It is incredibly fast and agile, reaching speeds of up to 12 mph.

Despite its name, the “black” mamba is not black. Instead, it is brown/olive or brownish-gray in color. What might be the reason for this African snake’s name is its “inky black” mouth. The snake displays this when threatened.

But what makes the black mamba one of the most poisonous snakes in Africa? The answer is its extremely potent neuro and cytotoxic venom, which is capable of killing a dozen men in as little as one hour.

Without anti-venom, the mortality rate for a black mamba is almost 100%.

Fortunately, humans do not make up this snake’s diet. The black mamba feeds on creatures such as moles, rats, mice, birds, squirrels, and other small mammals.

Mozambique spitting cobra:
The Mozambique spitting cobra is perhaps the most widespread cobra of tropical and subtropical Africa.

It is one of the most dangerous African snakes, second only to the black mamba.

As its name entails, the snake can spit (“spray” is perhaps more accurate) its cytotoxic venom with great accuracy and reach (jets over 9 feet).

Any venom to the eyes can cause impaired vision or even blindness. Its bite can also cause severe tissue damage (it rarely happens though as the snake does not necessarily bite).

When needed, the Mozambique spitting cobra can also elevate to as much as two-thirds of its body length. Conversely, it may simulate death to avoid further molestation.

Puff adder:
The puff adder is responsible for more fatalities than any other snake in Africa. It accounts for about 60% of all snake bites in southern Africa.

Most common on the African continent, this deadly African snake inhabits the majority of regions (except for some deserts and rainforests).

When disturbed, the puff adder hisses loudly and forms a tight coil. Since it relies on camouflage to hide itself and lies still when approached, people tend to step on it and get bitten.

The puff adder also has very long fangs (0.5–0.7 in), making its bite all the more damaging.

When biting, it injects between 100 and 350 mg of cytotoxic venom in a single go. The lethal dose for a human is 100 mg of its venom.

The puff adder has an average length of almost 40 inches. Despite its size, it is quite agile. It generally moves in a similar fashion to the way caterpillars do. But when ready, it strikes sideways at a notable speed.

And if you thought you’d be safe in the water or in a tree, you’re out of luck, as these snakes are exceptional swimmers and climbers.

Gaboon viper
The Gaboon viper is the ultimate ambush snake in Africa. It perfectly blends in with leaf cover and surrounding vegetation.

The venomous African snake ambushes its prey (large birds and some mammals) by standing still, sometimes for days or weeks, and attacks by surprise.

This is impressive considering it is heavy-bodied (weighs up to 22 lbs.) and large (grows to over 6 ft in length).

The Gaboon viper also has a large triangular head and develops two nostril horns with age.

The Gaboon viper is one of Africa’s most venomous snakes, possessing one of the highest venom yields. While it has a deadly bite, human fatalities are not too common.

Boomslang:
The boomslang is the most venomous rear-fanged snake in the world. It occurs in sub-Saharan Africa. Its name, “boomslang”, comes from the Afrikaans word “tree snake”. It is, therefore, a “tree-dwelling” snake species.

Unlike the Gaboon viper, the boomslang’s fangs are much shorter, yet it can open its mouth at a full 180 degrees to bite.

While fatalities are rare since the species is very timid, its venom is hemotoxic and results in internal bleeding.

Cape cobra:
The Cape cobra has a highly neurotoxic venom believed to be the most potent of all African cobras.

In fact, the mortality rate in humans is +/- 60% if not treated immediately. Death normally occurs between 2 and 5 hours after it bites a person and is usually the result of respiratory failure due to paralysis.

Its poison aside, the Cape cobra is a beautiful snake that varies both in color (from yellow to copper/mahogany colored and purplish/black), and size (average is 4 feet but can grow to 6 feet).

We left the reptile area to watch an energetic, costumed song and dance performance by the renowned Gasa clan. Dances of courtship and betrothal, of the throwing of the sangoma’s (traditional healer’s) bones, of war and of birth, set to the mesmerizing beat of the Zulu drum, took us back into another world.

After some complimentary tea and scones, and of course a detour through the gift shop, we boarded our bus for a long drive back to the ship. Here are a few scenes from modern-day Durban.

Our next port was to be East London, SA but the weather was too bad to bring the ship in to this narrow port so we are continuing on to Port Elizabeth, SA where we shall go on safari. Stay tuned…